questionswhat is a modem router and where do i get oneā€¦


Check around their website, or call, they might have a list of compatible routers. Otherwise, I'd assume that by modern they mean a recent model. I'd double check that with them first before you take my word for it, but I would imagine most routers would be fine as long as it was made in the last 3-5 years

If you did want to buy a newer one, or find out that your current router doesn't work (for whatever reason) I'd suggest looking around on NewEgg or Amazon as routers are usually reviewed quite a lot. Or if you'd prefer to interact with people, I'd suggest Staples, Office Depot, Best Buy or Frys Electronics as these stores have people who specifically work in the technology section of the store and should be fairly knowledgeable.

Newer routers might have some more bells and whistles, and depending on what you guys need it might be worth looking into getting a newer one.

*EDIT Looking at their website, do you mean modem?


chances are, your d-link isn't a modem. here's a list of compatible modems. just be aware, not all the modems on this page work for all services CLink offers.

not all of these are routers as well. so, you may need to connect your dlink to the modem.


Your D-Link is a DSL modem, which is not compatible with cable service. (Or, was the modem a separate unit? If so, you can continue to use it if you install a new cable modem.)

What you want is a DOCSIS 3.0 modem. (Probably 2.0 will be OK, but you're better off with the most recent as the costs aren't much different.)

You can find a bunch of them on the Amazon mothership for 60-75 bucks; given that, leasing is a fools game. 18 months of lease cost buys you a new one.


The best deal will normally be on ebay, especially if you are willing to go used. You can also call their customer support again and ask if you can buy one from them. Chances are they will want $100+ for it. You should be able to find it on ebay for ~$50.


A "modem router" is a modem that also has a router built in. Originally, a "modulator-demodulator" took analog sounds from a telephone line and converted them into a digital network signal. When DSL first became available, most people only had a single computer, so DSL modems had a single port (and your contract usually said you were only allowed to use the connection with a single computer anyway). But as people's networks became more complex, they started to plug a router into their modem, so that they could share the single DSL connection, or get wireless - that's the sort of connection you used to have - a router plugged into your modem.

A modem-router just puts both functions into a single box.


If you got to and search for CenturyLink, they carry 2 compatible modem-routers, for $90 and $100. At $5/month, it'll be 20 months before buying your own will pay for itself. If you plan on staying at that address, and you don't anticipate much trouble with electrical storms, it might be worth buying one. But it would probably be a good idea to try the leased modem for a few months first - if the service turns out to be crap, and you decide to cancel, you don't want to be stuck with the modem.

There are also lot's of CenturyLink modem-routers on eBay, if you want to go that route. (I probably would, after I'd leased a router for the first 3 months).


I got the D-Link DSL-520B modem only. The specific QWEST settings can be found on the internet.
I had problems that had nothing to do with my side, but they blamed my modem. I had to get the Actiontec m1000 (QWEST modem) to prove it was not me. They did fix the issue and found it was the connection to the main office. When my side would go down both modems did not work. My side would go down with either modem running.
Now I have 2 modems. After using the D-Link DSL-520B for a month without issues, I switched back to the Actiontec because it does not remember the settings. So it makes a poor quick swap backup for a modem. D-Link DSL-520B does remember the settings, and is ready for a quick swap for wife or kids.

Your router should be fine, to make sure what is the model number.


@rhmurphy: CenturyLink not being cable service, the very last thing OP needs is a DOCSIS modem of any sort.


I just want to chime in to say you should JUST buy a modem. You already have a router and both can be separate. A router will work with any cable/DSL modem. You already like your router, I assume, and it's cheaper to replace a separate modem in case of a phone line electric surge.

What you need to find out from Century Link is if you need an ADSL2+ modem in your area or VDSL. VDSL is the newer faster one, but not rolled out in very many places (AT&T brands it as U-Verse). VDSL and ADSL2+ are not compatible. ADSL2+ is the one you're more likely to need.


Best I could find on Amazon.Decent reviews and only $61.:::Link:::

@stile99 Good looking out sir.


@stile99: Thanks. That explains the downvote, I suppose. I assumed cable due to the 10 Mb; that's pretty high speed for DSL. (Yes, it's certainly doable at that speed if you're in range.). But still, Doh! Sorry.

I've also not had any experience with a DSL provider that separately charged for the modem, or gave such vague recommendations for a modem. Since DSL isn't standardized (like DOCSIS), it's hard to just buy a modem off the shelf and expect it to work. That's the value to the list of modems posted above.


@omnichad: If CenturyLink are offering 10mbps speeds, I'm pretty sure it's a VDSL service.


@rhmurphy: DSL is standardized - it's in use all over the world, and all the big consumer electronics companies sell DSL modems.


@ripwave: A little searching suggests that CenturyLink supplied ADSL2 in some areas and VDSL in others. You will need to verify what service is being offered in your area before springing for an appropriate modem.


@grimskull89: yes. They told me a modem-router combo.


@ripwave: Thank you for this simple to understand description!


@jeremytheindian: I bought that combo when I briefly had ATT DSL. It worked OK for basic functions but it was a complete nightmare trying to open ports for services. It supposedly had a DMZ (which I needed for an ATT micro cell) but that didn't work at all.

If you don't need either of those functions, then go ahead and get it.