questionshas anyone used pex tubing?


Ask @capguncowboy about his experience. As a seller, 1" is uncommon in residential usage. The main trunks are generally 3/4" and branch off to 1/2" for the outlets. YMMV.


Something to remember: 1" pipe is nearly double the water capacity as 3/4". The pipe coming into the house is probably a 1" all the way up to the pressure regulator. Most builders will run 3/4" (max) as a trunk line from the regulator through the house. The faucets and fixtures will only need a 1/2" pipe to run effficiently. Anything more is kind of moot because of regulations on the water capacity of faucets and shower heads. You probably won't benefit from anything larger than 1/2" pipes in most applications. To be doubly sure check with your local plumbing department at a Lowe's or equivalent. Most of the time they will have a pro on hand. It's also important to check on local codes before you do major jobs on rental properties. In most cases it won't matter but you can never be too careful.

Good luck!


Yeah, the 1'' is the mainline coming in, and the undecided part is coming off either 3\4 or 1\2. is where I'm looking at ordering online, and they only sell 100' coils. I'd rather just buy one blue and one red of the 3\4 and reduce down, but don't know if I could get away with 1\2 running to the shower and toilet, and just getting a reducer down from the one inch for the hotwater heater. Nowhere in the house now is a pressure regulator. It's only a 40' long house, with all plumbing on one side, and most everything is close enough I don't see any benefit running a homerun layout. I get to replace everything since I bought the house without doing a final inspection on closing day, only to find out the heat was off, and the old galvanized pipe was froze, and it would be a total piece meal job, instead of just going in all new..


It's pretty much what most folks install these days. Cheaper, easier, cheaper ...

- If feasible, install it with a manifold. Single run to each fixture means no pressure drop if another fixture is used upstream and more importantly, less time and waste running the hot water faucet while waiting for the hot water.
- Unless it's a large house, a 3/4" main is sufficient with 1/2" to each fixture. If there are 3 or more bathrooms, then you may want to consider 1".
- Color coding the piping is great if you need to service it in the future.
- Some prefer brass fittings, some prefer plastic. I opted for brass.
- I prefer the copper crimp rings versus the stainless clinch rings, but they both work. The other way is with the Wirsbo/Uponor expansion method.
- Don't skimp on the tools!

Reading reference:

A couple shopping places:


@spacemonkey6401: I started on my last reply before your post was up, so with that said, here are some more ramblings from me ...

- Is the 1" underground galvanized? If so, then it's probably not 1" in internal diameter anymore!
- Check the water pressure at the front spigot. If it's over 80 psi, install a pressure regulator where the main enters.
- 100' of 1/2" for hot, 100' of 1/2" coils for cold, and buy shorter lengths of 3/4" locally.
- 18" out of the water heater, you can't use PEX.


@narfcake: The 1'' underground is galvanized, and by no means is it 1'' id anymore. I could reduce it down after the main on/off to 3/4.

Will check the psi, I doubt it's over though, our town doesn't have the greatest water pressure.

On the lengths, that what I was planning, because this is one of those things that it is more expensive on the first job, but down the road I'll have it in storage to do anything that might pop up in the future.

On the water heater, I had planned on buying the inlet they sell. Thanks for the replies, after everything, I'm going to go the 1\2 route. It looks as if most crimp tools are 3\8 to 3\4, and the 1'' is a separate tool/piece.

One last thing, on how small the house is, and the expense of a manifold, I think the trunk and branch method will be the most economical way to go.

THANK YOU and everyone for the replies.


@spacemonkey6401: It's less than $10 in direct material costs using multiple fittings versus a manifold (at pexuniverse), but much fewer crimps (3 vs. 1) to make and less 3/4" to run. Even with the extra 1/2" to run, the total cost difference will be minimal.

If you can sketch your house's layout with the location of the point-of-entry/bathroom/kitchen/laundry/water heater, we may have additional suggestions.