questionsis there a way to make my blu-ray player pick up…

vote-for3vote-against
vote-for5vote-against

@kappelzs: I waited until I was halfway through my second cup of coffee to answer this. I'm still trying to grasp how to explain this to you. The short answer, I believe, is no, no you can't do that. I could be wrong, since I've never seen your blue ray player, and perhaps it has more capability than I expect an item like this to have, but I'm still willing to stand on this answer.

There are nice little USB dongles that can give wireless access to a desktop or laptop computer, but they aren't magic. It still requires that the item you plug the dongle into has the ability to get drivers, and enough of a rudimentary operating system that it will be able to suddenly add a capability that it didn't have before. I can explain to you how you can use preexisting network connections to accomplish what you're hoping to do, but that will take a few more comments to do.

What the heck, this is just more than I can resist.

vote-for5vote-against

If I were going to make a way around this, here's an approach. ATTENTION: This assumes a working wireless already exists (else why ask this question). Set up an access point (one that's able to bridge) in the room, very near where the blue ray player resides, and then run a network cable from the access point to the player.

I'd thought of even more complicated approaches, but I'll quit with this one.

You might also consider just biting the bullet, and buying a wireless capable player...

vote-for2vote-against

Sony sells a USB wireless dongle for their products, though compatibility is kind of vague and the price isn't exactly wonderful. It supports 802.11n.
http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10551&langId=-1&productId=8198552921666131651#compatability

vote-for3vote-against

You could also run a wire along your base boards. Doors might pose a problem for you.

There is a way for you to run a cable from one end of the house to the other. http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat_id=3519&sku=20345

vote-for4vote-against

@sgoman5674: Actually, in my previous house, where there was a crawl space, I had cable runs under the house, and then internet access in a few rooms. Of course, I also had power in the floors. It was lovely. Beautiful little brass plates, and dedicated circuits. Now my house is on a cement slab (for the basement), so I have cable runs on the walls. Yes, I thought about punching holes in the walls and cabling the house, but the cable runs are only in one room, and I prefer keeping the computer stuff out of the other rooms.

Yeah, if it was me, I'd just get a cable that was long enough, and I'd run it up and over door frames with small hooks, or a cable run, so as not to have a tripping hazard. If you get a decent cable (at least cat5e, or cat6), you can have 100 feet (I actually seem to recall the real limit is 100 meters) without the problems of attenuation that you'd expect.

vote-for3vote-against

@catbertthegreat: That is what I was coming here to suggest and you beat me, damn, I am shamed.

vote-for5vote-against

Another way to run cables/wires around your house (not elec and cable in the same run) is to use the old attic. Find where your lines come in, run them to the attic and then run it to where you want (then drop it down). You can use cable hiding stuff if you want on your walls, or you can fish it between interior wall studs. A fish tape is relatively inexpensive and will last you a lifetime. If you can, run some PVC in your attic, just couple it together, and leave a draw string in there for future use. This way you can always make another run for the newest wire/gadget that has to be added.

I advise to not mix cable and electric runs together. They tell you about shielding, but the cable normally comes from the cheapest source. Who is to say that the cable you bought is shielded as well as the box/wrapper says it is? unless you test it yourself, you can never be sure.

Not everyone has the same kind of attic, but most are accessible. Be careful, walk on a board, not truss.

vote-for2vote-against

@ecriscit: Actually, if the cable is twisted pair, shielded, it says so, right on the wire. If it isn't, it doesn't. That's actually governed by a fairly strict law or so.

Okay, this is MUCH prettier than your average picture.

http://www.siemon.com/us/standards/13-23_multi-pair_cable.asp

http://www.ciscopress.com/articles/article.asp?p=31276

That cisco article explains the difference between shielded and unshielded (among other things).

I do want to point out that shielded is wisest when doing long runs, as has been suggested, but the cost may be more than you are willing to bear. I've used special cable trays (actually pipes) that were meant to provide shielding for more flexible, and far less expensive, UTP.

Mmmm, networks. We love networks. They are the most fun of anything that there is.

vote-for4vote-against

Wireless gaming bridge.

Something like this:
http://homestore.cisco.com/en-us/outlet/adapters/Linksys-WET610N-RM_stcVVproductId82187548VVcatId543809VVviewprod.htm

I use one to get WiFi on my DirecTV box. There are other variants, but basically, the idea is you plug your ethernet into it, and it sends that data via WiFi to your wireless router.

vote-for3vote-against

@shrdlu: I helped my school run a cable from the point of the internet source to the dorm comp lab. I think the distance was about 300ft of actual cable used. It replaced a wireless relay system. There are a few routers in-between acting as bridges. I think hard wiring the system boosted our speed by 600%. It was still slow as molasses on a cold day.

vote-for1vote-against

@eneref: so does this have an ethernet cable coming out of it that i just plug into the back of the player and i get wireless?

vote-for1vote-against

@kappelzs: You will need a wifi router for this device to connect to (i.e. you already have wifi in your home). And you MAY have to supply your own ethernet cable, but that's the basic idea, yes. You plug your player into this almost like you were plugging your player directly into the ethernet port on a router. The bridge handles sending those wired signals over the wifi back to the home base wherever it happens to be.

As for buying the cheaper one, as long as it DOES act as a bridge (I'm not familiar with that model specifically), then yes, it will work. I just pointed out the Linksys one because it's the company I knew would have one to which I could point as an example.

I also own a Buffalo one that works brilliantly for translating my IP phones into WiFi.

vote-for1vote-against

@shrdlu: do any of the things i have posted here in comments seem as though they would work? or do they have to be made by sony specifically for this purpose. wondering what my cheapest option is going to be. at a certain point, you are right, i am just going to have to spring for the new player

vote-for2vote-against

@kappelzs: A friend of mine recently purchased this Asus wireless adapter/bridge to use with his Panasonic Blu-ray player (non-wireless-ready). It took him 5-10 minutes to setup and works like a charm. It can even be powered from a USB port if your player has one.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320025&cm_re=asus_bridge-_-33-320-025-_-Product

vote-for1vote-against

@shrdlu:
http://www.ciscopress.com/articles/article.asp?p=31276
From your link about halfway down or so:
"Disadvantages also are involved in using twisted-pair cabling, however. UTP cable is more prone to electrical noise and interference than other types of networking media, and the distance between signal boosts is shorter for UTP than it is for coaxial and fiber-optic cables."
This is why I say not to run electrical and cabling in the same run.

From your other link:
Transfer Impedance
Shield effectiveness characterizes the ability of screened (F/UTP) and fully shielded (S/FTP) cables and connecting hardware to maximize immunity from outside noise sources and minimize radiated emissions. Transfer impedance is a measure of shield effectiveness; lower transfer impedance values correlate to better shield effectiveness
Note: not all shileding says 100%, nor will it.

vote-for1vote-against

@shrdlu:

Another link: http://fcit.usf.edu/network/chap4/chap4.htm
Installing Cable - Some Guidelines
When running cable, it is best to follow a few simple rules:

Always use more cable than you need. Leave plenty of slack.
Test every part of a network as you install it. Even if it is brand new, it may have problems that will be difficult to isolate later.
Stay at least 3 feet away from fluorescent light boxes and other sources of electrical interference.
If it is necessary to run cable across the floor, cover the cable with cable protectors.
Label both ends of each cable.
Use cable ties (not tape) to keep cables in the same location together.

I agree with what you said earlier, but my training and experience says not to run them near each other. Shielding is getting better, but it isn't perfect.

Company x buys cable y from china. China submitted cable y for tests, test looked good, first order went out. Cable y is "respiffed" and looks like cable z on 3rd ship.

vote-for3vote-against

@ecriscit: In my former life, I would not have purchased cable from China. I no longer have the links for where I did purchase it, but I LOVED them, because I could have my very own serial numbers on BOTH ENDS. Whoo-hoo! If you've ever been sad because you don't know what cable goes from where to where, and your spiffy label FELL OFF, you will appreciate how wonderful it is to have cables preprinted.

We always used only florescent pink for the shielded, but that was because we wanted to be able to see them (for other reasons). I also bought colors according to length, and I'm always shocked to pick up a red cable in a store that's not fifty feet long, or a green that's not twenty-five feet. White cables (or light grey) were always special, and built to order. I think I gave away my crimpers a while ago.

vote-for1vote-against

@eneref: It think I am going to give this Linksys WET610N a try, it seems to be recommended for my bluray player when i looked them both up. Sony BDP-N460. Will it catch my wireless easily when i hook it up to the bluray? I just have my apple airport router hooked up to my modem in the other room and no main desktop computer hooked up to it seeing as though i only use laptops in the house, the router is only one room over so signal strength should not be an issue